Last post - the fat lady is singing

Well, our planned walk had been executed almost perfectly. The weather was with us and it was a varied walk with something interesting always going on. There were no issues around accommodation and meals and the tightly knit group held together well.

Now by the morning after, we were going our separate ways again and enjoying a few conversations about doing another one next year. A few places are already under active discussion.

The first of the remaining 7 members left around 8 am after breakfast for a few days in Germany and another 3 followed several hours later heading back towards Frankfurt and then the airport and home.

That left 3 to bring up the tail. I had always planned to take a midday ferry ride further downstream to Koblenz for a bit of sightseeing. The other two also had a couple of days left and they decided to come to Koblenz with me and then take a day trip to Cologne to complete the trip.

To fill in time, in the morning we climbed up out of Braubach to the Marksburg castle above the town. This is apparently the only Rhine castle never to be destroyed at some time and therefore interesting to visit. We were a tad disappointed to find it all locked up so we decided to take a coffee and at least enjoy the fine view over the Rhine.

The quiet was then interrupted as we were inundated with a Viking Line group tour - mostly Americans. Just as were were heading for the track back down, a number of tour leaders with the inevitable paddle pop batons were observed hovering close by the entry gate to the castle itself. Being the slow one of the three, I found myself heading towards the castle entrance just as the door was being locked - my two mates were now inside the castle as part of Viking tour group 1.

Not to be denied, I soon joined up with group 2 as they entered through the castle door. I had the big camera with me and sporting my US Open Tennis 2003 cap, I was almost invisible and soon locked inside the castle with my new, older, US friends.

A short while later, I spotted my two mates as they had had enough and were leaving their group to look for the way out. But I stuck with my new friends as we listened to the talk and made our way deeper into the castle. Then I realised that time was running out and I also needed out. I left to join up with the group 1 paddle pop just as they finished their tour and were heading for the exit. Out through the unlocked door I shot looking to find the footway back to town. I had just enough time to find my mates, get my bags and head for the Rhine and my ferry. Then it was off to Koblenz.

In Koblenz, we had lunch in the old town and after checking into our hotels we took the cable car over the Rhine and up to the old fortress. We spent the rest of the afternoon there.

After our evening meal we went our own ways. The other two were planning to go on to Cologne for the day whilst I had always planned on seeing a bit more of Koblenz.

In any event the trip was now almost over and things are returning to normal. This has been the best walking trip so far in some ways and I have made some great friends who share similar ideals.

Time to call it a day for this blog and drop into another reality. Rheinsteig hiking has been a fine experience.

We finish at Braubach

At Kamp-Bornhofen we stayed at a fairly modern and refurbished establishment near the river. Bornhofen looked to be a small wellness/pilgrimage town with a large old church and associated buildings and a series of hotels nearby. It seems to me that what our host a few days ago at Kaub had said seemed to be true, in that there are fewer tourists around this year and that some places here are struggling. Bornhofen was very quiet even for a Sunday afternoon.

Whilst a few of us wandered around the place eating the inevitable ice creams, a couple of the others got a massage to ease pains and the rest played cards over a beer or two in the riverside beer garden. The weather was warm again.

We dined fabulously at our hotel after our hard days work and then it was time to take off again for our last day on the track.

The walk from Kamp-Bornhofen to Braubach was always going to be one of the longest and toughest in terms of climbing. The total walk we had chosen for the trip is usually 1 day more than we were doing and this was one of our longer than usual legs to help cut out one day over the eight days total.

Our eldest walker (71) was feeling the pinch a bit and another was having blister issues so these two opted to walk a few kilometres at the start along the river whilst the rest of us took the inevitable climb out of Bornhofen to travel along the ridges for a few villages before the track came back towards the river. As it turned out we almost ran the two 'alternates' down just as we were coming into our walk end at Braubach.

For me this was quite a tough day even though I am clearly a lot fitter than when we started. The weather was warm so sweat was everywhere and the climbs were long and more frequent than usual. There were no villages along the upper ridge areas.

We must be getting into walking season as again this day there were plenty of walkers along the track. We were moving a lot faster than almost all others but we were also a lot fitter looking too. Whilst keen walkers were about, the shapes were a bit on the fatter side and it was more a trip into nature than a serious trek for most. But it was good to see so many about.

We got into Braubach about 3 pm, about the same as usual where we met up with the other two and exchanged notes on the day.

A drink or two in the nice little courtyard and then after a shower and rest we were ready for our last dinner together.

We dined at our hotel as it was in a great setting and the menu suited most of us. Some are tiring of the rather limited choices at times but we struggled through by getting another selection of spargel (white asparagus) to encourage us along. I had not tired of it.

This particular hotel must be part of the bicycle and lodging places along the Rhine as there were a lot of bikers here. And they were not travelling together but mostly as couples.

As with the rest of the towns in this area, Braubach looked to be a little quiet for the season. And all along this part of the river system, people seemed to be older. Maybe this area is where the oldies come for a break and a less stressful holiday?

Walk days 7 and 8-To Kamp-Bornhofen

We had made our various plans for the rest day at St Goarhausen; one left the group to join up with family in England to celebrate his mother's 100th birthday next week; most took a day trip on the ferry to Koblenz whilst the remainder stayed local. I walked out to the Lorely statue just up river from the town before going across the river for a look around and a coffee. Then we split up to go our own ways. I had a good beer garden lunch at St Goarhausen watching the Germans go about their weekend leisure. There appeared to be several car, motor bike, and even vintage tractor reunions on this weekend and they love their vehicles, it is clear. Endless streams of them strutting their stuff. Others were out on push bikes. Sensibly, bike helmets are optional here and this makes it easier to hire bikes etc. We are a bit behind in our thinking back home although our road culture is much more aggressive in Australia.

The weather was perfect.

The next day we walked from St Goarhausen to Kamp-Bornhofen, a little more than 21 kms. It was a similar routine of an energy sapping climb out of town to the hills behind, followed by more gentle walks through forests and a couple of very small hamlets. There

were a lot more walkers out this day so we had an endless stream of guten tags, hello, tag, morning as we were going along. All shapes and sizes on show. Quite a few certainly seem to be carrying excess weight. After a quick bite and rest for lunch we were soon heading past a couple of castle ruins and then straight down into Bornhofen and our riverside hotel. Another day on the road less travelled.

Photo Opportunities

Walk days 5 and 6

At Lorches we stayed at Hotel Arnsteiner Hof with your typical country couple running a small back country operation. Extremely friendly lady-Renata who was all over us trying to help. Her standoffish husband Rolf, who apparently did nothing but talk or play cards with the inevitable local mates and a small but big barking guard dog who ensured I did not get too far towards the back yard of the place in my usual explorations.

We ate, as recommended, at a local place up the road from our hotel and, as usual it was pretty good. We are giving the Rieslings a good taste test as we move along the river. These are usully good but good reds are difficult to find. It appears that most local village offerings are the very local wines which is a good thing.

Our trek from Lorches to Kaub was fairly difficult in places and the day was quite long for us. It is now following the expected routine of a brisk climb out the village in the morning, leaving at about 9 am, until we rest at the top of the hills. By then, I have built up a very good sweat. The others are impressed with my loss of fluids in this way. As my pack sits on my back, I am resolved to get a better one that sits off my back before walking again to see if I can improve ventilation and sweat loss.

We then usually have another couple of good climbing sections before dropping back down to the river to find our hotel.

There are just one of two very small hamlets en route usually, so for the last couple of days we have carried a simple roll made from breakfast cuts for lunch. This is plenty, particularly as we usually end our walking day by 3-4 pm.

At Kaub we strike a really on the ball hotel host who not only has great English but a real interest in helping us along. It makes a difference.

Walk days 3 and 4

We are about to leave Rudersheim after another good day along the Rheinsteig. Fine day, good tracks and well signposted. We had a brief stop at a excellently kept wine processing place not long after we started and then another stop at a convent for a brief rest. Then around 2 pm we were on the godolas and heading down into the wine village of Rudersheim. The town was full of tourists of all descriptions and this double edged sword of tourist income versus preservation and calm ambiance was very evident. The meal was not as good as others and clearly because of the tourist impact. It is just too easy to offer standard “German fare”, probably with an american bias simply because 90% of clients will only ever be here once. It was a clear contrast to just 2 days ago when up in the hills and in places where most clients were regulars and we were the blow ins.

Now completing this note in Lorches. Although a river town and served by the ferry system, it does not appear to be on the tourist circuit.

Now for a few words on the trail itself. We have pretty good maps and they are handy for reference several times during the day but the track is very clear and well marked so a map is not a necessity. In this group, I probably rate 5 or 6 out of 8 for fitness so have been coping ok. On most days we have had 2 or 3 really solid climbs, normally up through forests and as a big sweater, I need plenty of water to keep me from dehydrating. Although we had a short shower just as we were leaving this morning, the overall weather pattern is just a little warmer each day. This makes it very pleasant whilst we are in the terrific wooded areas whilst being ok out in the open. We normally walk for between 1 and 2 hours before a short rest stop to ensure the group is still together. And as we go along, we tend to be in couples or singles, depending on just what topic is under discussion at the time. There are not a lot of other people on the track apart from locals out from villages for the daily constitutional.

This has been the first day when we have stuck reasonably close to the river. So a fair bit of the walking is at height, generally above the vineyards and contouring as we go. About every 2-3kms, we head slightly inland as we climb up and over some fairly deep gullies. Underfoot is usually very good and better than Mt Taylor trails in Canberra for example. So you can move quite quickly through the countryside. And the overview of the valley with the river scenes, constant trains on both sides of the river and the panoramic vista is quite fantastic. What could I be doing this time of year that would be better? Hmm!

Walk Day 2

So. Our first overnight is in a spa town. Huge hotel but hopefully for them, not quite the season, as the place is practically empty. Not really enough time to take the spa baths so just taking the health waters and I need plenty of that due to perspiration during the walk.

The weather is stabilising and we start our second day of walking. A little warmer and the stormy look is disappearing. The spa town Schlangenbad is slightly hidden away within several sharp valleys so it was a little tricky navigating our way out of town. A with 7 leaders in a team of 8, there are plenty of “I think we go this way” offers to sort us out.

But en route and after a good climb out of the valleys we head past the inevitable vineyards and into our day. Slightly longer at around 20 kms and with a bit more climb.

Tough life for some as we take lunch in a nice outdoor setting in Eberach monestry. There are quite a few visitors especially for a Monday and we enjoy the break.

As usual, it is a sharp climb up from lunch and things are quiet in the group for a change as we digest lunch, sweat a bit more than usual and then deal with the competitive climb up.

By a respectable 4pm we are in our pension a few kilometres from Oestrich-Winkel.

A cleansing drink, shower, and the inevitable clothes wash and then we head off for dinner in the town. Home again for an early night to get ready for our next stage.