Walk days 5 and 6

At Lorches we stayed at Hotel Arnsteiner Hof with your typical country couple running a small back country operation. Extremely friendly lady-Renata who was all over us trying to help. Her standoffish husband Rolf, who apparently did nothing but talk or play cards with the inevitable local mates and a small but big barking guard dog who ensured I did not get too far towards the back yard of the place in my usual explorations.

We ate, as recommended, at a local place up the road from our hotel and, as usual it was pretty good. We are giving the Rieslings a good taste test as we move along the river. These are usully good but good reds are difficult to find. It appears that most local village offerings are the very local wines which is a good thing.

Our trek from Lorches to Kaub was fairly difficult in places and the day was quite long for us. It is now following the expected routine of a brisk climb out the village in the morning, leaving at about 9 am, until we rest at the top of the hills. By then, I have built up a very good sweat. The others are impressed with my loss of fluids in this way. As my pack sits on my back, I am resolved to get a better one that sits off my back before walking again to see if I can improve ventilation and sweat loss.

We then usually have another couple of good climbing sections before dropping back down to the river to find our hotel.

There are just one of two very small hamlets en route usually, so for the last couple of days we have carried a simple roll made from breakfast cuts for lunch. This is plenty, particularly as we usually end our walking day by 3-4 pm.

At Kaub we strike a really on the ball hotel host who not only has great English but a real interest in helping us along. It makes a difference.